Monthly Archives: July 2018

What’s old is new again at Cakebread Cellars

The story of Cakebread Cellars begins in Oakland, California. Jack and Dolores Cakebread were high school sweethearts who married and led a somewhat average life…to start. Jack was a mechanic but loved taking photographs…enough to study under Ansel Adams at Yosemite. In homage to Ansel Adams, a new outdoor section at Cakebread Cellars incorporates a stone from Yosemite.

In 1972 Jack was hired as a photographer to head to the Napa Valley on assignment for “The Treasury of American Wines”. His payment for the book of images was later used as a down payment for Cakebread Cellars, a modest structure at that time. It wasn’t until 1985 that the structure seen today was built. Another renovation is in process – a visitor center which will be complete sometime next year.

Although Stephanie Jacobs has served a few roles at Cakebread Cellars for over a decade, most recently she was appointed as head winemaker. Among the 14 vineyards Cakebread owns, she has a love affair with pinot noir from Anderson Valley. I couldn’t wait to try a glass and share her comments with you:

Several of us on the Cakebread production team are UC Davis alums, so we enjoy partnering with their Viticulture and Enology researchers to explore new innovations – from the vineyards to the cellar – in pursuit of quality. That could mean new technology and equipment, like the infrared spectroscopy machine that we’ve started using in the lab to analyze large amounts of grape samples in short amounts of time.  What may have taken four hours in the past now only takes an hour, which is precious time savings during the busy harvest season and helps us make more timely grape picking decisions. 

Innovation isn’t just chasing what’s new.  It could also mean revisiting older historic techniques that have fallen out of fashion or are less commonly used.  For example, we harvest nearly all of our grapes at night because we think it greatly improves fruit quality, plus it provides cooler temperature working conditions for our picking crews during the warm Napa weather months.  Concrete egg fermentation tanks and larger-sized puncheon oak barrels are other examples of “what’s old is new again” when it comes to winemaking explorations.

On a hot 100 degree Saturday, I froze inside the air-conditioned private tasting room, where a pour of a 2017 sauvignon blanc set the stage for a superb tasting of a 2015 chardonnay reserve made from Carneros grapes. Carneros is a region within Napa Valley with a cooler climate; the grapes grow a thinner skin. This wine feels like cream on my palate and instantly I recall my gal pals on the North Shore of Boston who loved Cakebread Cellars chardonnay. I wholeheartedly agree.

Aside from tasting wines, Cakebread Cellars offers cooking classes and an in-depth tour twice each morning to oversee vineyard production – from the grapes’ path to the bottle. Cooking classes include the harvest from Dolores’s Garden for farm-to-table offerings.

garden

Finally, I’m ready to taste the 2015 pinot noir from grapes of Apple Barn vineyard. This is a heavy counterpart to Annahala Ranch and sold only at this winery. If you’re a wine club member, you can get this wine. This wine alone is worth the membership. But if you require more incentive, upcoming wine club events include an August 25 Full Moon Dinner at Dancing Bear Ranch, an October 13 Harvest Dinner and a December 1 Holiday Cooking Class.

OK, I’m ready for a tasting of the 2014 Dancing Bear Ranch Estate Merlot ($54), which turns out to be robust and dry, with 6% cabernet sauvignon to give it a good backbone.

If you’re in the Napa Valley and want to know what restaurant wine lists include Cakebread Cellars, check out Saint Helena: Cook, Goose & Gander, Market and Sunshine Market.

My farewell sip, a 2013 cabernet sauvignon from Dancing Bear Vineyard, is smooth – an actual drink alone cab?! One bottle will set you back $146 but like so many great wines of California, it’s worth the splurge.

 

10 Summer Sips, including a Sparkling Shiraz

Halfway through summer and tired of rosé, I don’t know about you, but I’m ready for some summer whites. To kick things up a notch, I’ll throw in a sparkling shiraz. Here’s my list of recommendations in order of my personal preference:

  • Let’s make white wine really interesting with a bottle of 2016 Grüner Veltliner Count Karolyi ($11) from the region of Pannon in the country of Hungary. It’s dry with a lemon bouquet and its light spritz is as refreshing as the cool of morning when those grapes were picked. Enjoy as an aperitif, poolside, with an eggplant mozzarella sandwich and with shellfish dishes.
  • Cortese grapes grow in Gavi and Tassarolo village in the southeastern part of the Piedmont, close to the city of Genoa and the sea. This Italian terroir is bottled as a 2016 Luca Bosio Gavi (DOCG) ($18.99) by Luca Bosio Vineyards. This wine’s aromatic complexity (floral overtones and a bouquet of pineapple, apricot and peach) is a result of the grapes’ 24 hours spent in contact with its skin before they’re pressed and the must fermented in steel tanks. Three months in contact with its own yeasts post-fermentation and another three in the bottle and you can count on a good pairing with chicken and pork dishes.
  • A bottle of Spanish Verdejo sets the stage for seafood and fish or pasta and rice dishes. From the region of Vino de La Tierra de Castilla, a bottle of Real Compania Verdejo ($11.99) is refreshing and intense with exotic fruits and fresh herbs.
  • If Wine Spectator awarded a bottle of 2015 Georges Dubœuf Pouilly-Fuissé ($34.99) 90 points, who am I to disagree? A white Burgundy never disappoints. Prestigious, balanced and best served with smoked salmon, sole meuniére or chicken in cream sauce, this chardonnay is a true summer sip.
  • I happen to adore Ironstone whites of Lodi, California, the first being a 2017 sauvignon blanc ($13.99). If you can get your hands on an authentic New England lobster roll, enjoy with a glass of this zesty blend of 88% sauvignon blanc and 12% viognier.
  • If you prefer to pair the perfect wine with grilled scallops or trout dishes, try the 2016 Ironstone Chardonnay ($14)
  • If you’re invited to a cookout with shrimp on the Barbie, bring along a bottle of 2016 Ironstone Vineyards Chenin Blanc ($12) and you’ll wow everyone.
  • Heading back out of the U.S., I’m sipping on a Spanish albariño with my sushi. To be exact, a 2016 Pazo Cilleiro Albariño produced by Bodegas Muriel in the region of Rías Baixas (D.O.) ($19.99) of northwestern Spain. You can also serve this with fish paella.
  • The chenin blanc grape has its roots in South Africa, so a bottle of 2017 Simonsig Chenin Blanc from Simonsig Estate in Stellenbosch, South Africa, works for me ($13.99). Keep it light and serve as an aperitif.
  • Finally, if you like the taste of Welch’s grape juice with fizz, you’ll love a bottle of 2016 Paringa Sparkling Shiraz from The ARH Australian Wine Company in South Australia. I’m advised to drink with bacon and eggs for breakfast, but seriously… save your $17.99 for one of the wines at the top of my list. I love a good cab-shiraz from South Australia, and I love a good sparkling, but not this one.

Four Must-Try Sips in Chattanooga

Taking the stairs from my swanky digs at the boutique Dwell Hotel in Chattanooga, Tennessee, drinks at Matilda Midnight were in order before dinner at the Solarium Cafe, where botanicals and locally-sourced ingredients are the theme in this cozy, 35-seat cafe.

I’m a sucker for honeysuckle anything. I love the scent and the taste, let alone the name. So, when I found Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka on a few cocktail menus, I had to order those first and foremost. According to distiller Phillip Ladner, the notes on this unique vodka are “soft floral & herbaceous aromas of honeysuckle. A sweet and delicate flavor with a well-rounded fresh finish.”

At the Dwell Hotel’s zodiac-inspired Matilda Midnight lounge, seasonal cocktails are on the menu.

DRINK #1 – At the Matilda Midnight lounge, order the Summer Sanctuary ($10) with Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka, St. George Pear, Creme de Violette, Sparkling, and this is where the visual gets really interesting… icebound seasonal fruits & herbs. The ice cube is over-sized and encapsulated in the cube is a work of art — colorful, fresh herbs that become one in your drink if you drink it too slow.

DRINK #2 – A few steps from the Matilda Midnight lounge is The Dwell Hotel ‘s Solarium Cafe. The menu is health-conscious and the wine list is a mix of Old World and New World. My choice was perfect: A Shiraz/Grenache that proves Australia wines of McLaren Vale are keeping up with the Joneses.

DRINK #3 – I deem St. John’s Restaurant in Chattanooga as the best restaurant in the city. Before I perused the dinner menu, I ordered myself a cocktail of April Showers (you can order this off-menu off-season) because, well, honeysuckle… Cathead Honeysuckle Vodka with yellow chartreuse, strawberry-rhubarb, thyme, lemon and sparkling wine. Oh, my.

DRINK #4 – Still at St. John’s Restaurant, my cocktail was set aside for a glass of Anthill Farms 2015 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, which paired nicely with my order of pork belly “Croque Madame”.

Bridge Walk

Once you’re ready to walk off the alcohol, head to one of the longest pedestrian-only truss bridges in the world: the Walnut Street Bridge. This iconic bridge was built in 1891 and spans 2,370 feet over the Tennessee River to connect downtown Chattanooga with the vivacious North Shore District. The best way to walk it is to grab a cone of hand-crafted, creamy Clumpies Ice Cream on the North Shore Coolidge Park area at sunset.

NOTE OF INTEREST: Head to Chattanooga on October 6, 2018 to participate in the Wine Over Water Food & Wine Festival that takes place on the bridge.

 

Three Shades of Rosé

The little black dress isn’t only for women. Sorry, ladies, but according to a 2018 Wine Intelligence Study, over half of rosé wine drinkers are male! Excelsior Wine Company discovered a way to cater to both sexes… with a gender-neutral label of a script acronym, “lbd” and to cater to the ladies… its new vintage has been featured as part of LBD Cares Initiative supporting women at nationwide events. How’s that for keeping everyone happy?

My bottle of Mendocino County, California 2017 ldb rosé pours a full-flavored watermelon and berry sweet summer sip. It is the perfect blend of zinfandel and petite syrah in a pink-salmon shade that speaks of summertime.  The price point doesn’t break the bank, either. At $12/bottle, visit www.lbdwines.com to locate your Little Black Dress. If you’re feeling cocktail creative, here’s a recipe for an LBD Spritzer:

  • 4 oz. LBD Rosé
  • 1/2 oz. lychee liqueur
  • 1/2 oz. Pama liqueur (or POM juice)
  • 2 dashes of rhubarb bitters
  • Dash of Strawberry Rhubarb soda or Club soda

Fill a wine glass with ice. Combine LBD Rosé, lychee liqueur, Pama liqueur, and rhubarb bitters. Top with strawberry rhubarb soda or club soda. Garnish with fresh-cut strawberries and wheels of lime and fresh sprig of rosemary.

Next, I sipped a Vivanco 2016 Tempranillo Garnacha. This is a deeper shade of rosé and hails from Rioja, Spain in a blend of 80% tempranillo and 20% garnacha from Vivanco’s estate vineyards. The bottle was inspired by an original 18th century bottle on display at the Vivanco Museum of the Culture of Wine. Visit www.vivancowineculture.com for more information. The buildup to taste begins with aromas of red licorice, raspberry, and strawberry wrapped in a floral mix of roses and violets. This affordable bottle retails at $14.99.

Last, but not least is a Western Cape, South Africa sparkling Simonsig Kaapse Vonkel Brut produced at Simonsig Wine Estate. I brought this straw-colored bottle to a Fourth of July celebration/cookout and it was a huge hit! I will definitely be ordering more bottles to pair with breakfast (scrambled eggs), lunch (sushi) and dinner (duck) with dessert of almond cake suggested as the perfect pairing. Priced at $25/bottle, I’m impressed.

Three varietal staples of sparkling wine went into this brut: chardonnay, pinot noir and a touch of pinot meunier. If you enjoy sipping light flavors of apples and pears, you’ll love this sparkling imported by Quintessential Wines. Note of interest: In 2004, winemaker Johan Malan created the first ever blend of Pinotage.