Category Archives: Event coverage

You can’t judge a wine list by a restaurant named Lucky Palace


Our van pulled up to the Bossier Inn & Suites on Diamond Jacks Boulevard in Bossier, Louisiana. As the driver parked in front of a nondescript block of a building surrounded by nothingness, an uneasy feeling washed over me. But, a trust in my itinerary at this travel writer conference eased my anxiety a bit. And then I walked inside.

Parallel to its exterior, my first reaction was to turn around and question whoever coordinated this visit. But this restaurant, Lucky Palace, was what people raved about — especially the wine list. So, how could I dismiss it based on its looks? The culinary offerings alone were intriguing: Asian-Cajun fusion, which translates to alligator in a stir-fry, as it turns out, among other Louisiana delicacies. But the wine list is what turned Lucky Palace around in my mind.

Although informed the owner was a Master Sommelier, he wasn’t. But, he had a sophisticated, expert palate and knew how to pair world wines. Kuan Lim’s story began with a trip from San Antonio with his wife. They stopped at the Bossier Inn & Suites along the way, but ended up staying for 16 years and counting.

It could not have been the surrounding beauty of the hotel, but perhaps he saw potential for making his mark in an area lacking a top-rate wine list. In fact, Lucky Palace has been awarded several Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence. Lim isn’t shy about stocking wines with a cost upward to $350 a bottle, a paradox even if his Chinese restaurant is considered gourmet.

We began with a seriously delicious glass of blanc de blanc (Pol Roger, Reserve, Brut, NV), paired with crawfish rolls that set the tone of sheer pleasure in an evening that ensued with laughter, travel stories and the company of all walks in the field of travel writing: bloggers, speakers, part-time wanderers, and print, online journalists. The social media enthusiasts among us clicked away, and we all cajoled each other and happily drank together. Our pairings continued with salted duck eggs that looked like a southern-style hush puppy, but were not, and we consumed whole shrimp, Chilean sea bass, and of course, that alligator with garlic sauce, paired with a 2011 Bourgogne Blanc, Dupont-Fahn, Chaumes des Perrieres, Burgundy.

Next, a perfectly balanced 2010 Domaine Faiveley, Mercurey, Burgundy, accompanied a plate of roasted duck on scallion pancakes, and Cantonese crispy T-Bone. I passed on the braised oxtail. Ending the tasting menu with a glass of Madeira, Broadbent, 5 Years Reserve was brilliant, especially when served with sensational sesame balls stuffed with peanut butter sauce. They went fast.

During the remainder of my stay in the Bossier/Shreveport, Louisiana area, like an inside secret, each time we drove past the billboard advertisement for Lucky Palace, I couldn’t help but grin like a Cheshire cat. Visit if you don’t believe me.

Why Aussie wines are rising from down under

Group Chief Winemaker of Hardys, Paul Lapsley, enjoying his wines at EVOO in Cambridge, Mass. Photo by Charlene Peters

It is estimated that 200 glasses of Australia’s most prominent wine, Hardys, are consumed each day around the world. Hardys is also the most recognized Australian wine in the world, yet, in the U.S., this brand of wine has been all but non-existent — until now.

Expect to be smitten by Australian chardonnays and pinot noirs in particular.


A family account

The history of Hardys began 160 years ago, when Thomas Hardy arrived down under from an English farming family in the countryside near Devon. Upon his arrival in Australia, he became involved with cattle and the “butchery business,” feeding hungry miners in the gold fields of Victoria. Just over a year later, his profits were utilized to purchase land South of Adelaide on the banks of the River Torrens, an area later known as “Bankside” and the origins of Hardys winery and wines.

Thomas’ sons were involved in the business, prompting the name change to Thomas Hardy & Son in 1887. Only one son, Robert, became a winemaker. Hardy’s cousin, Thomas Hardy Nottage became involved in 1884, helping to build the success of Hardys wines, managing McLaren Vale Vineyards of which the Nottage Hill tier of wines is named in his honor.

Today, the family’s involvement continues with William (Bill) Hardy, who has worked as winemaker and ambassador for the Hardy family’s famous brand for the past 40 years and counting.


Ready for the U.S.

With the cultivation of vineyards throughout the west, north and south, in Queensland, New South Wales and Tasmania, the maturing of 2012 vines and the complexity gained in blending grapes from these various areas gives Australian wines the cutting edge, ready for resurfacing in the U.S.

“My position as chief winemaker, as is the Hardys’ tradition, has always been taking fruit from whole regions and making blends and/or single regional wines or blends from regions to get the consistency of star quality,” says Paul Lapsley, who has 27 winemakers working under him.

Lapsley has recently toured throughout the U.S. to represent Accolade Wine Group, which bought the Hardys brand from Constellation in 2011. This group includes Hardys Nottage Hill and Tintara McLaren Vale brands as well as Hardys.

“When Constellation bought us,” says Lapsley, “the industry was at its peak.”

Before a tsunami of events occurred in 2007, such as a weak world economy, a rising Australian dollar and oversupply of a particular mainstream Australian wine, as a whole, the Australian wine industry suffered. Wine and spirits maker, Constellation Brands stepped in and paid a price of 1.2 billion dollars for Hardys, selling 80 percent of the company for 290 million dollars, losing one billion and writing off 700 million in assets.

After dipping out of the American market for a while, he says, “We struggle every day with building the reputation of Australian wines.”

Hardys was bought by a private equity company who knew how to run a business, beginning with reducing the 750 labels down to a much more manageable 200. The company was renamed Accolade Wines, with Hardys as the main wine brand.

What makes Hardys successful is its ability to garner grapes from its seven wineries all over Australia, Tasmania being the “lovely jewel, the mini crown, so to speak,” says Lapsley.

Given its unique position in Australia’s winemaking history, its considerable vineyard/winery holdings across Australia’s most prized winegrowing regions, and the worldwide recognition for Hardys as one of Australia’s most storied wine brands makes Hardys well poised for the current resurgence of Aussie wines in the U.S.

By recognition and volume alone, Lapsley says, “We’re about to get back on track with America.”


Tasting notes

With this comment, he shares a rare release 2008 Hardys Shiraz – named the 160 year anniversary bottle, selling for $200 a bottle. This shiraz is all about hand harvested grapes that hail from McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and Frankland River ancient vines aging 50 to 100-plus years, and the wine can be cellared for 15 to 20 years. It’s a dense red, opulent wine, full-bodied with flavors of dark chocolate, licorice, blackberry and dark plum. Its French oak barrel aging gives it an overlay of mocha and vanilla.

“We’re not saying our shiraz is a Rhone style,” says Lapsley, “but we say it has finesse.”

It’s a really exciting time for Australian wines.

Part of the Commonwealth of Australia, Tasmania, located south of the continent, is one of the reasons Australian wines are making resurgence in the U.S. According to Lapsley, chardonnay and pinot noir are the hottest wines on the market today, thanks to a move to Tasmania vineyards 20 years earlier.

“That made the difference in quality,” says Lapsley. “And in sparkling wine as well.”

Humbled by Australian wines of the past, Hardys chardonnay is the stepping stone to a more complex chardonnay grape grown on vineyards in Western Australia. It offers more of a melon flavor, heading toward citrus and tropical. At the end of the day, it’s a $13 bottle of wine simply taken out of the fridge and enjoyed.

As for the medium bodied 2012 Nottage Hill Pinot Noir ($SRP $13) with soft tannins and a flinty background, Lapsley explains the process: “We don’t try to overdo it. We treat these grapes in the Burgundian manner, naturally fermenting with techniques on lees. It’s not a wine that needs a lot of oak.”

Fortunately, wine is no longer about high alcohol. You won’t see a bottle of Hardys wine with 15 percent alcohol or more.

“We as winemakers never liked that style,” says Lapsley. “If you look at our wine style over the years, it’s about elegance and finesse.”

Ten million cases a year are exported to the U.K., where Hardys has been exporting for nearly 130 years. The U.S. is next on the radar, especially due to the fact that the states are now the biggest wine market in the world. The Hardys brand is one to watch as it makes its way to the U.S. You can rest assured this Australian wine is on the savory edge, representing the newest styles of winemaking with grapes grown in a cooler climate, ultimately attributing to great structure and a rise in the U.S. from down under.

Not to be taken too seriously, Lapsley quips, “At the end of the day, it’s just fermented grape juice.”


Hardys wines currently sold in the U.S. include:

–          Nottage Hill wines ($13 SRP)

–          William Hardy range ($17 SRP)

–          Tintara McLaren Vale wines ($19 SRP)

–          The Hardys Winemaker’s Rare Release Shiraz 2008 ($200 SRP) is also available in very limited quantities

Visit for more information.


I shall drink first with my eyes, poring through bottles whose labels range from Chateau d’Esclans‘ Whispering Angel of France, to Bodegas Verum Reserva Familiar 2009 Tempranillo of Spain. I am at the 2014 Boston Wine Expo, in the Vintner’s Reserve Lounge inside the Seaport Hotel’s Plaza Ballroom. This is a separate venue from the Grand Tasting floor of the Expo, in that it is where the cream of the crop awaits my palate. The price points are a bit higher than what is tasted in the Grand Tasting Floor, where I stopped for a taste of Barefoot Bubbly before the 1 p.m. opening of the Vintner’s Reserve Lounge.

Once visually full of my surroundings, which included Scullers Jazz Club playing in the far corner, floral arrangements by Stapleton Floral, Alex and Ani jewelry, the enticement of Celebrity Cruises and Silversea Cruises and S.Pellegrino & Acqua Panna hydration, I was ready to taste, taste, taste. And not just fine wine like a 2009 Chateau Corton Grancey of the Cote de Beaune region in the village of Aloxe-Corton ($100/bottle), which makes a phenomenal pinot noir with grapes grown from limestone soil and aged in oak casks, but culinary specialties such as beef wellington of Ruth’s Chris Steak House and prosciutto meatballs of TAMO bar & lounge. In fact, the food rivaled the wines, and, to be honest, overwhelmed me. Where do I begin? When do I break for more food or stop at the cheese table? Sofas are at the ready for some time spent sipping at leisure. And sip I did.

A Louis Latour Marsannay proved worthy, as did an Oregon pinot noir of Winderlea Estate in Dundee Hills. I couldn’t keep up with so many elegant wines to document, so I began using my Vivino app to document the occasion. A L’Abeille de Fieuzal Graves 2011 of Bordeaux caught me by surprise, as did a 2009 Terra Alta Mather Teresina of Spain, a Celler Pinol. I knew I’d love the selection of Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon’s, as I knew I’d adore the Grgich Hills Estate wines.

For the price of $185 on a Sunday afternoon, the Vintner’s Reserve Lounge was well worth the cost for time spent exploring world wines and class A culinary offerings. And with the ticket price, you get access to the Grand Tasting as well.